Chinatown Speakeasy Apothēke Turns Into Absinthe Den On Sundays

Most of my weekends, “going out” consists of pre-gaming with several curated 6-packs from my local bodega. Then galavanting to the dive bar for ONE Sailor Jerry’s and ginger ale to mingle and maintain my buzz. However, being an adult means you can justify spending money on quality alcohol. I found myself in the mood to indulge one recent Sunday and while craft cocktails are easy to find in NYC, I wanted something elusive, interesting and different. The Chinatown speakeasy Apothēke seemed perfect. I had never been there but have always heard great things. Lucky for me it was the debut of their Absinthe night.

Chinatown has always had this charm that I found to be equal parts enchanting and terrifying, trendy but gritty. Edison bulbs from newer establishments clash with the florescent lighting of old-school dumpling houses. As I made my way onto Doyers Street , I was given the up-and-down by a few Chinese cooks catching some fresh air from their busy dinner shift. I continued on my way to an unmarked brown door, a sign of a decanter and the words ” Chemist” above it.

According to their website, Apothēke pulls inspiration from the rise of apothecaries in Europe and Absinthe dens in 19th century Paris. There was no doubt a subtle nod in the decor and atmosphere. The lighting was dim, but warm ; the kind that makes everyone looks sexy. Sconces were decked out with chemistry flasks filled with bright colored solution. Apothecary bottles in various shapes and colors lined the liquor shelf and the bartenders were busy doing there thing in lab coats. A band began to set up in the left hand corner of the bar.

As I made my way up to the bar eager for alcohol and bathed in the orange glow of the lit up countertop, Apothēke’s General Manager Seth Bulkin handed me a menu – called a “prescription list”.  The only difference between a real prescription is that these were still affordable and name brand. Looking for the oddest drink on the menu, my eyes honed in on  the  “Holy Water”, which I found fitting for The Sabbath – Walton Water’s Absinthe, Avua Cachaca, guava, macadamia milk, heavy cream, egg white, and orange blossom flower. I’ve never shied away from dairy and egg with liquor, but I must admit this combination of ingredients were a bit intimidating. I order it anyway and am surprised at the balance of flavor. Creamy, slightly sweet and fresh with a trailing taste of Absinthe towards my initial guzzle. I almost genuflected in appreciation but felt that my 10-second sips were sign enough of my satisfaction. I should have hit up a few pork buns at a nearby Dim-sum restaurant before my absinthe cocktail, because not long after I was feeling pretty buzzed. I’m a cheap date.

Intrigued by the creativity of their drinks and the ambience, I decided to interrogate Seth for answers.  He told me that perspective cocktails are presented by staff and go through a three week tasting process and after careful consideration, he and head mixologist Chris Marshall, choose what will make it on to the menu. Seth also schooled me on the rich history of Doyers Street. The bend in the road (1st picture ) roughly where Apothēke’s unmarked door stands, was once known as ” The Bloody Angle” because of violent crimes related to Chinese gang warfare.

The night continued with the bartenders crafting with surprising finesse and speed.  Cocktails are made using fresh , local herbs , produce and botanicals and it seemed that the ” Dr. Ruth” was a popular choice to showcase it :muddled strawberries , lime, vodka, rosemary, agave and champagne.  Jars and glasses appeared filled with Red bell pepper, mussel shells, cantaloupe, hickory smoked pineapple; nothing was off limits as an ingredient , and everything had potential as a garnish.

Looking down at my watch I realized 2 hours had passed. The thought of work the following morning crept into my mind, making me wonder why I ever decided to be a functioning adult. But feelings of dread quickly turned to appreciation and happiness that I finally got to experience this Chinatown badass.

Apothēke

9 Doyers St, New York, NY 10079

Mon-Sat: 6:30 pm – 2:00 am
Sun: 8:00 pm – 2:00 am


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Hey! it's Diego. Consider me your unsolicited guide to the underbelly of society — sharing my experiences with fascinating people, unique products, uncommon places and more!

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